Salak

What it is

Salak, Salacca zalacca, is the fruit of a densely clustering palm. It's round to oval, about the size of a fig, 2.5–10 cm by 5–8 cm (1–4 by 2–3 in), and tapers to a point at one end. Its regular rows of scales turn reddish brown to nearly red when ripe. Inside is soft, translucent flesh around one to three blackish seeds, each about 1 cm (0.4 in) across.

Ripe fruit is sweet. Less mature salak can be sour and leave a dry, puckering feeling in the mouth.

Where it comes from

Salak comes from Java and Sumatra in Indonesia and has spread to other islands, from Bali to Maluku. Each growing area tends to keep its own favourite variety. Pondoh began around Yogyakarta in Java and became popular further afield in the 1990s; it is one name that also appears on fresh fruit offered overseas.

How it's eaten where it grows

In Indonesia, salak becomes manisan salak, a candied preserve, or asinan salak, a pickle. Unripe fruit also goes into rujak, a spicy fruit salad.

In Sleman, Yogyakarta, one home version of manisan soaks the peeled, seeded flesh in a syrup boiled with sugar and cinnamon, with cloves as an optional addition, then chills it for two to three days. A Bogor version of asinan simmers salak in a mixture of red chillies, vinegar, sugar and salt, then serves it cold.

How it's grown

Salak is a very spiny palm, 1.5–5 m (5–16 ft) high, with short stout stems and leaves that sprout from ground level. Indonesian growers traditionally plant it beneath existing trees, giving the palms shade. They cut away extra shoots and ageing leaves and pollinate flowers by hand. In one variety trial, the first flowers appeared 23–34 months after sowing, and the fruit develops in tight bunches.

When and where you'll find it

In tropical north Queensland, salak is usually available from January through May. Farther away, the fruit travels fresh: one British online fruit shop lists it as Salak Pondoh. To open one, pinch off the pointed tip, pull it away, then peel off the rest of the scaly skin.