Jatoba

What it is

Jatobá is Hymenaea courbaril, a tropical tree in the bean family. Its oblong, woody pod turns dark brown and measures 8–15 cm (3–6 in) long. Inside, hard brown seeds sit in dry, cream to brownish pulp. That pulp is the part to eat.

Its other names include stinking toe and West Indian locust, and an opened pod gives off a strong smell. Rub the pulp through a sieve and it becomes a fine flour for cooking.

Where it comes from

Its native range takes in Mexico, Central America, the Caribbean and much of tropical South America. In Brazil it grows in the Amazon, Atlantic Forest, Cerrado, Caatinga and Pantanal. It lives in both wet and dry forests and can tolerate four months or more of drought.

The tree has also been introduced into the Philippines and the United States.

How it's eaten where it grows

In Brazil, jatobá flour goes into cakes, breads and porridge; the pulp also becomes jelly and liqueur. A broinha is a small bake somewhere between cake, bread and biscuit, made with maize and wheat flours; broinha de jatobá adds the fruit flour.

In the Eat Rio version, fennel seeds scent a dough enriched with butter, egg and milk. The little broinhas bake to a light, biscuit-like texture and are served with tea or coffee.

How it's grown

Jatobá is grown from seed and takes about eight to twelve years to bear fruit. Bats pollinate its flowers. It is planted in full sun, either among other tree species or in stands of its own. Deep, fertile, moist sandy soil with good drainage suits it best, and it grows in both wet and dry tropical forest.

When and where you'll find it

In Acre, western Brazil, jatobá is usually collected from May to September. In Pará, farther east, the usual window runs from August to November, sometimes into December. Whole fruits are sold at regional Brazilian markets and fairs, with the dry pulp inside the hard shell.