Evergreen huckleberry

What it is

Evergreen huckleberry, Vaccinium ovatum, belongs to the same plant group as blueberries and cranberries. Each berry is just 0.6–0.9 cm (about ¼–⅜ in) across, with many tiny seeds inside. Berries grow in clusters close to the branches, changing from red to blue-black as they ripen. The shrub has small, leathery leaves with toothed edges.

Where it comes from

This is a fruit of North America’s Pacific coast, from British Columbia through Washington and Oregon to California. It grows beneath coastal conifers and in Northern California’s redwood forests.

David Douglas introduced the shrub into cultivation in 1826. It is still grown in gardens as well as gathered in the wild, and native plant nurseries offer it for planting within its home range.

How it's eaten where it grows

Coastal peoples including the Sechelt and Nuu-chah-nulth in British Columbia and the Quinault in Washington have long eaten these berries. Traditional preparations include fresh berries with oil and berries dried in sun or smoke, partly mashed into cakes and wrapped in leaves or bark.

In West Marin, California, Grandma Norma’s Wild Huckleberry Tart puts the local harvest in a butter crust with sugar and cinnamon. Fresh berries go on top just after baking; the heat below partly cooks them, leaving two textures in one tart.

How it's grown

Evergreen huckleberry likes acidic soil that drains well. It grows in shade or partial sun, with brighter sites producing more flowers and berries. The small pink-to-white bells attract long-tongued bees, including bumblebees, which carry the pollen.

Plants are raised from seed or cuttings. Cascade Jewel is an upright garden variety about 1.1 m (3½ ft) tall, with large hanging bunches of berries.

When and where you'll find it

In Humboldt and Del Norte coastal gardens, berries usually ripen from July through October, with picking sometimes continuing into late fall. Fresh wild huckleberries occasionally appear at local farmers’ markets in Northern California.

Home cooks preserve evergreen huckleberries by freezing or canning them. Commercial processors also use the fruit in pie filling, carrying the harvest beyond its fresh season.