Rough lemon

What it is

Rough lemon is Citrus jambhiri. Its fruit is often round or oval, about 7 cm (2¾ in) across, with an irregular neck or a sunken point at the tip. The medium-thick rind pulls away easily and changes from lemon-yellow to brownish orange.

Inside is pale yellow to orange flesh with numerous small seeds. It gives a moderate amount of juice. It tastes moderately sour, though a sweet-fleshed form also exists.

Where it comes from

Rough lemon comes from India, where it still grows wild. Portuguese travellers carried it to southeastern Africa, and it became naturalised along the Mazoe River. Its life as a rootstock now reaches citrus-growing regions including South Africa, Australia, Argentina, Brazil and Florida.

How it's eaten where it grows

In the western Himalayas it is called jhamirdi. For chutney, the strained juice cooks with ground green chillies, garlic and ginger. Jaggery, raisins and chopped dates bring sweetness to the sour, spicy mixture. Its juice also flavours pickles.

Kachai lemon grows around Kachai village in Manipur’s Ukhrul district. Its peel can become candy: blanching comes first, then cooking in juice and sugar syrup. The dried pieces get a coating of sugar and cinnamon.

How it's grown

The large, vigorous tree spreads upward and outward and carries many small thorns. Small, purple-tinged flowers appear mainly in spring and late summer. Growers commonly raise rough lemon from seed, then graft another citrus onto it: the rough lemon supplies the roots, while the upper tree bears oranges, mandarins or grapefruit.

When and where you'll find it

At Riverside in California, Indian rough lemon usually ripens in October and November. In the western Himalayas, it is usually a winter fruit gathered locally and sold in markets. Its juice is also preserved for summer drinks, carrying part of the cold-season harvest into warmer weather.