Bilberry

What it is

A Finnish bilberry measures just 0.6–0.8 cm (¼–⅓ in) across. A waxy bloom covers the dark blue skin, which is soft and easily broken. Inside, the flesh is blue-purple too. A cultivated highbush blueberry has a pale centre, so cutting the two fruits open reveals a clear difference.

Where it comes from

Bilberry grows across Europe and Asia, and in western North America's Rocky Mountains from British Columbia and Alberta down to New Mexico and Arizona. In Finland, it is a forest food gathered for centuries. Its harvest comes from low shrubs beneath the trees, with berries gathered from the wild.

How it's eaten where it grows

In Yorkshire, England, bilberry plate pie encloses berries and sugar between two layers of buttery shortcrust pastry. It is served warm with clotted cream.

In Karelia, in northwestern Russia, bilberries are eaten with milk, curd or porridge. They also fill vareniki, dumplings cooked in boiling water. Kissel turns the berries into a thick fruit drink: sweetened juice thickened with starch. Freezing and drying carry the fruit beyond its summer season.

How it's grown

Bilberry shrubs stand about 10–30 cm (4–12 in) tall and lose their leaves for winter. They spread through a wide network of underground stems. In Finland they favour shady conifer woods. Insect pollination helps set the crop, while night frost during early flowering can weaken it.

When and where you'll find it

In Finland, the usual picking season runs from late July to early September. Bilberries travel beyond that season frozen, dried, or made into juice and jam. Wild Finnish berries are also dried and milled into a fine powder for stirring into yogurt, porridge or baking.