Olive

What it is

An olive has flesh around a single hard stone. Green olives are harvested before fully darkening; left on the tree, the skin turns purple or black. Oil builds up as the fruit ripens, and naturally black ripe olives mostly go to be pressed for oil.

The variety and preparation matter too. Mission olives suit dry salting. Olives kept in brine, or salty water, ferment and develop a tangy flavour. California’s canned style has a mild taste and buttery texture.

Where it comes from

Olives have been cultivated around the Mediterranean for thousands of years, with olive oil traded by 3000 BCE. Most of the world’s olives still grow in that region.

California’s first olive cuttings were planted at the San Diego Mission in 1769. Today, California grows more than 95% of US olives, with its Central Valley a major growing area.

How it's eaten where it grows

In Provence, France, tapenade blends black olives with capers, anchovies, garlic, lemon juice and olive oil. It is spread on toasted bread or served with raw vegetables. The olives become a thick, savoury paste.

In Hatay, Turkey, zeytin salatası puts pitted green olives in a salad with chopped tomatoes and parsley. Pomegranate molasses, olive oil and red-pepper flakes make the dressing. It can accompany breakfast or sit beside a meal; spring onion is another addition.

How it's grown

Olive trees grow slowly and keep their leaves year-round. The leaves are grey-green above and silvery underneath, and a tree can reach 6–9 m (20–30 ft) tall. Hot, dry summers and mild, wet winters suit them, along with full sun and soil that drains well. California growers harvest by hand or machine.

When and where you'll find it

California’s table-olive harvest usually runs from early September to mid-November. The fruit then goes to one of the state's two processing plants to be sorted and graded before curing.

Canned California olives are sold all year: whole, pitted, sliced, chopped or in wedges. The word “ripe” on California-style olives describes the finished product: even the black ones begin as fruit picked green. Curing connects the autumn harvest to the familiar can in the cupboard.