Loganberry

What it is

A loganberry has the size and tapered shape of a blackberry, with dark-pink to deep-red colour. Its skin is firm but tender, and the flesh holds medium-sized seeds. It tastes sharper than a raspberry. You can eat it fresh, but that tartness also gives jam and cooked desserts their character.

Where it comes from

In 1881, California judge and amateur plant breeder James H. Logan grew blackberries beside a raspberry plant. Among 50 seedlings, one stood out: the berry that took his name. Today loganberries grow in Oregon, while in England Thurloxton Farm, near Taunton, grows them for pick-your-own.

How it's eaten where it grows

At Spring in London, loganberry ice cream pairs strained fruit purée with an equal weight of custard made from cream, milk, sugar and egg yolks. The berries bring their tart flavour into a smooth, creamy dessert.

Oregon’s berry growers point to jams, pies and wines for their somewhat tart flavour. At Thurloxton in England, the farm calls its loganberries ideal for jam-making or freezing, so a summer picking can become fruit for later desserts.

How it's grown

Loganberries grow on long stems called canes, which can spread 3 m (10 ft) along support wires. They suit fertile soil in sun or partial shade, with shelter from a wall or fence. Most varieties fruit on the previous summer’s growth. After harvest, the old fruiting stems are cut down and the new ones tied into place.

When and where you'll find it

Oregon’s harvest usually runs from mid-July to mid-August. The same window usually applies at Thurloxton, where visitors pick their own and pay by weight. Fresh berries need gentle handling: a shallow container, only two or three layers deep, keeps them from being crushed.

Loganberries stop ripening once picked. Frozen fruit gives them a longer kitchen season; thawed berries work in purée and ice cream.