Hawthorn fruit

What it is

Chinese hawthorn, Crataegus pinnatifida, is also called shan zha. The round fruit is about 2 cm (¾ in) across, resembling a small crabapple. Its pale flesh is less juicy than an apple, with acidity and a little bitterness. Up to five large seeds sit in the centre, often stuck together into what feels like a single stone.

Where it comes from

This hawthorn comes from East Asia, including northern China and Korea. China also grows forms selected for larger fruit. In the north of the country, hawthorn desserts belong to winter: bowls of fruit in sweetened juice at home and sugar-coated skewers on Beijing streets.

How it's eaten where it grows

For Beijing tanghulu, fruit on a bamboo skewer takes a dip in sugar syrup. The syrup sets into a hard coat around the sour flesh. Wangfujing is one of the city’s streets associated with the snack.

At home, hongguo lao pairs hawthorn with its sweetened juice in a small bowl. The fruit is halved and seeded, then covered with rock sugar and hot water and left overnight. Hawthorn apple tea uses dried fruit instead, simmered with apple pieces and finished with rock sugar; it can be served warm or chilled.

How it's grown

The tree loses its leaves for winter and can reach about 7 m (23 ft). Full sun gives better fruit production, and established trees tolerate drought and heavy clay. A seed-grown tree takes 5–8 years to bear fruit. A grafted tree can flower heavily in its third year.

When and where you'll find it

Chinese hawthorn usually ripens in autumn, followed by the winter season for tanghulu in northern China. In the US, Wing Hop Fung in El Monte, California, sells sliced hawthorn under the name shan zha. Dried hawthorn also goes into the apple-and-rock-sugar drink.