Rowan berry

What it is

Rowan is Sorbus aucuparia, also called European mountain ash. It belongs to the rose family; the ash-like leaves account for its other name. The fruits are about 0.8 cm (⅓ in) across and turn red-orange. Each is a small, berry-like pome, the same kind of fruit as an apple.

The tree has smooth, silvery-grey bark and leaves divided into 5 to 8 pairs of toothed leaflets, with one more at the tip. The fruit grows in clusters that turn scarlet as they ripen.

Where it comes from

Rowan comes from Europe and western Asia. It grows wild in the Scottish Highlands and is also planted along streets and in gardens. In the United States and Canada, it is widely grown as an ornamental tree in northern areas, with some populations now growing wild.

How it's eaten where it grows

In Scotland, rowan jelly traditionally goes with game. It also suits lamb and cheese. The berries are cooked with crab apples, then strained through cloth. Sugar and lemon go into the juice before a final boil turns it into jelly.

Crab apples supply pectin, the substance that helps the jelly set; Bramley apple cores work too. Letting the juice drip through the cloth keeps the jelly clear. Squeezing pushes cloudiness into it. The finished preserve is deep orange.

How it's grown

Rowan suits cool climates and dislikes hot, humid summers. It grows best in sun, in moist, acidic soil that drains well. Insects visit the creamy-white flowers. Birds eat the ripe fruit and spread its seeds.

When and where you'll find it

In Britain, rowan berries usually ripen as summer turns to autumn. A jar of jelly is another way to taste them. British preserve maker Rosebud makes its Wild Rowan Jelly with 53% rowan berries, plus Bramley apples, sugar and lemon, for serving with venison and other game.