Asam gelugur

What it is

Garcinia atroviridis bears round, juicy fruit about 7–10 cm (3–4 in) across. Deep grooves divide the surface into ribs, and the ripe skin turns orange-yellow.

The sourness is its main attraction in food. Fresh fruit is called asam gelugur; the dried slices are asam keping. Drying turns a whole fruit into small pieces that can season a pot of broth or curry.

Where it comes from

The tree is native to Malaysia, India, Myanmar and Indochina. In Peninsular Malaysia it grows wild in lowland and hill forest up to 600 m and is also widely planted. At Lambor Kiri in Perak Tengah, farmer Isa Mat Jadi grows it among other fruit trees, replacing some durian trees that died. His first crop arrived after four years.

How it's eaten where it grows

In Malaysian asam laksa, dried slices help sharpen a fish broth poured over rice noodles. Tamarind pulp can go into the same pot, along with Vietnamese mint and galangal. Flaked fish tops the bowl; strong-tasting fish such as chub mackerel are preferred.

In Perak, Kakchah’s family chicken curry uses two slices with coconut milk, tomatoes and potatoes. The same sour fruit works in a rich coconut sauce or a fish broth.

How it's grown

Male and female flowers grow on separate trees, and village plantings favour fruit-bearing females. At the Lambor Kiri farm, fruit is picked when it turns golden yellow, sliced thinly at home, then dried for several days until the pieces turn blackish brown.

When and where you'll find it

Asam keping is a dried ingredient to look for in Asian groceries. In Parit, Perak, the family business Kakchah has made it since 1990. The name on the packet refers to the slices; asam gelugur names the fresh fruit.

At Isa Mat Jadi’s farm in Lambor Kiri, fruit production continues without a single fixed harvest season.