Service tree fruit

What it is

Sorbus domestica belongs to the rose family. Its fruits are about 2–3 cm (0.8–1.2 in) across, in apple-shaped and pear-shaped forms. Before softening, the skin ranges from russet to greenish-red.

In France the fruits are called cormes. Firm fruit is intensely astringent, leaving a dry, puckering feeling in the mouth. Bletted fruit becomes soft and dark brown, with creamy pulp.

Where it comes from

The service tree’s natural range includes southern and central Europe, especially the Balkans, Italy and southern France. Its long history in cultivation has blurred the boundary between planted and wild trees. In the Pays de la Loire countryside of France, it grows in hedges and at woodland edges, and fine old trees still stand in farmyards.

How it's eaten where it grows

In Pays de la Loire, cormé is a cider-like drink made by fermenting softened cormes with water. German apple wine can also include service-tree fruit, known as Speierling.

Kronberger Speierlingstraum is a German dessert: crumbled sponge biscuits drizzled with service-tree brandy, a layer of service-tree purée, then mascarpone, soft fresh cheese and whipped cream, chilled for hours. Cinnamon finishes the top.

How it's grown

The service tree grows slowly to about 10–20 m (33–66 ft). It needs light and struggles when neighbouring trees crowd it out, but can grow on poor, stony soils. It produces little viable seed. New trees can instead be raised from root suckers, shoots that spring up from an existing tree’s roots.

When and where you'll find it

Cormes are an autumn fruit in Pays de la Loire, where they are usually gathered after the first frosts. Along the Mediterranean coast they can soften before frost arrives: the dark, soft stage is what matters for eating. Bottled apple wine offers another encounter; Kelterei Walther in Bruchköbel, Germany, makes Apfelwein Speierling.