Oregon grape

What it is

Tall Oregon grape is Mahonia aquifolium, also named Berberis aquifolium. Its round blue berries measure about 0.7–1.4 cm (¼–½ in) across, with a dusty coating and a few large seeds inside. The leaves have the glossy surface and spiny edges of holly. The berries are used as food, though they can upset some people’s stomachs; the bark, leaves, roots and sap are not food.

Where it comes from

This shrub grows along the Pacific side of North America, from southern British Columbia through Washington and Oregon to California. It lives in woods, thickets and more open ground, and is common under open Douglas-fir forests in British Columbia. Oregon named it the state flower in 1899. The plant keeps its leaves year-round.

How it's eaten where it grows

In British Columbia, First Nations ate the berries mixed with salal or other sweeter fruit. Jellies, preserves and wine are made from them too. Modern cooks also give the sharp juice sweetness and richness. Devon Young’s Oregon-grape and lemon curd combines crushed berries with lemon juice and zest, sugar, eggs and butter.

A fine sieve removes the seeds and other solids after cooking. The smooth curd can fill a tart with a graham cracker crust, spread between layers of cake or sit on shortbread. It can also be frozen for later.

How it's grown

The shrub usually grows about 0.9–1.8 m (3–6 ft) tall and slowly spreads by sending up new stems from its roots. It tolerates shade, and established plants tolerate dry conditions. Its evergreen leaves, showy yellow flowers and blue fruit make it a popular landscaping shrub for borders.

When and where you'll find it

In British Columbia, tall Oregon-grape berries usually ripen from mid-July through August. Jelly offers a prepared way to taste Oregon grapes, but the name also covers related plants. Forest for Dinner’s online wild-food shop lists a jelly made from fruit gathered on Vancouver Island; that jar uses Mahonia nervosa, a different species from the tall Oregon grape described here.