Marita

What it is

The long fruit head, often 30–40 cm (12–16 in) when ripe, is a tightly packed mass of small fruits, each with an oily outer layer. Most forms are red; some are yellow. In Kurulu, in Indonesian Papua, Dani growers count heads averaging 75–90 cm (30–35 in) as large. Cooking and straining removes the stones, fibres and central core, leaving the soft paste.

Where it comes from

Pandanus conoideus is a crop of New Guinea and the Moluccan islands to its west. It grows mainly in the lowlands, reaching up to 2,000 m (6,560 ft). Across Papua, communities distinguish their own named varieties by fruit size, seed size and colour. Karuka, another New Guinea pandan food, is grown for its seeds.

How it's eaten where it grows

In New Guinea, marita paste accompanies starchy foods, especially sweet potato. The paste is oily, with scarcely any taste of its own.

Among Hatam people in Arfak-Manokwari, cut fruit is boiled with water. Once cooled, the cooked mixture goes into cloth and hangs so the oil drips out. The thick pulp left behind is kept too: it becomes a sauce eaten with boiled root crops at breakfast.

How it's grown

The plant is a branching woody shrub about 4–7 m (13–23 ft) tall, supported by prickly prop roots. Its long leaves commonly reach 1–2 m (3–6.5 ft), with prickles along their edges and central ribs. Growers usually raise marita from cuttings; the fruit is generally seedless.

When and where you'll find it

In Papua New Guinea, marita is usually eaten from October through March. In Kelila, in Indonesian Papua, named varieties follow one another through harvests from November to February. It is a locally traded food in New Guinea, exchanged both for other goods and for cash.