Kahikatea fruit

What it is

The part you eat is a swollen, fleshy base beneath the seed. It measures just 0.25–0.65 cm (0.1–0.26 in) long and ranges from yellow to orange-red. The dark seed is separate, hard and nutlike. Remove it before eating the soft flesh, which has a gentle sweetness.

Where it comes from

Kahikatea is native only to Aotearoa New Zealand, across the North Island, South Island and Stewart Island/Rakiura. It belongs to lowland forests, especially river flats that flood or drain slowly. Its swamp forests are all but gone from the North Island; the best surviving examples are on the West Coast of the South Island.

How it's eaten where it grows

Māori gathered koroī in large quantities. There are records of feasts where 60 baskets of the fruit were provided.

In the Waitākere Ranges near Auckland, cook Alessandra Zecchini removes the seeds and leaves the red flesh overnight with a little mānuka honey, then serves it with cereal or yogurt. Her quince-and-kahikatea tart puts the two fruits under puff pastry; after baking, the pan is turned over so the fruit ends up on top.

How it's grown

Kahikatea grows easily from fresh seed, while cuttings from woody branches take longer to root. Although associated with swamp forest, it grows fastest on deep river-terrace soils that drain well. The trees can reach 65 m (213 ft), and their heavy fruit crops draw pigeons and tūī into the branches.

When and where you'll find it

In New Zealand, kahikatea usually fruits from February through April. March is a time for small fresh harvests in the Waitākere Ranges: fallen berries can be gathered a few at a time, as in Zecchini’s kitchen. Washing the fruit and removing each seed leaves a small amount for breakfast or a tart.