Japanese cornel

What it is

Japanese cornel is Cornus officinalis, a dogwood much like the European cornelian cherry, Cornus mas. Its narrow oval fruit measures 1.2–1.8 cm (about ½–¾ in) long. The skin turns red to purplish red, and each fruit encloses an oval stone.

The flesh is edible but strongly astringent: it leaves a dry, puckering feeling in the mouth. Compared with cornelian cherry, Japanese cornel flowers earlier but ripens its fruit later.

Where it comes from

Japanese cornel is native to north-central and southeastern China, where it grows in forests, along woodland edges and on mountain slopes. It was introduced to Japan and Korea. Sandong, in Gurye County in southern Korea, is the country’s biggest sansuyu-growing area, with spring flower celebrations and an autumn fruit harvest.

How it's eaten where it grows

A Korean home preparation turns the fruit into a sweet drink concentrate. The stones come out first, then the flesh goes into a jar with brown sugar. A layer of sugar covers the top, and the closed jar stands for three months.

In Sandong, sansuyu is also dried, or its juice is extracted for concentrates and makgeolli, a Korean rice wine.

How it's grown

The plant grows as a large shrub or small tree with low branches, losing its leaves in winter. It prefers well-drained, acidic soil, in sun or partial shade. Older bark peels in grey-brown flakes. Kintoki flowers heavily; Spring Glow grows into a low, broad tree.

When and where you'll find it

In Sandong, picking usually starts when the November frosts arrive and the leaves fall, leaving the bright red fruit on bare branches. Much of the harvest is dried or made into concentrates and makgeolli; the Gurye Sansuyu Farming Cooperative opened its own drying plant in 2018.