Colombian blueberry

What it is

Agraz is Vaccinium meridionale, a relative of the familiar blueberry. Its round fruits measure about 0.5–1.8 cm (0.2–0.7 in) across. They start green and turn deep purple, almost black, as they ripen.

The flavour leans tart, with enough sweetness to soften the acidity. A slight drying feeling in the mouth is part of its character.

Where it comes from

This is a fruit of Colombia’s high Andean country, growing wild at roughly 1,800–3,500 m (5,900–11,500 ft). In Boyacá, its mountain homes include Ráquira, Tinjacá, San Miguel de Sema and Chiquinquirá. In Ráquira’s Torres area, families in the ASOTORRES association gather, grow and market the berries.

How it's eaten where it grows

Vetas has dulce de agraz: berries mixed with grated panela, the firm brown cane sugar, until the mixture takes on the texture of jam. It needs neither added water nor heat. People eat it with cheese or cuajada, fresh curd cheese, or spread it on savoury crackers.

A Colombian cheesecake preparation takes the cooked route. Agraz, sugar and water simmer into a thick sauce, which is cooled and spooned over the cheesecake. The berries also go into yogurt, juice, ice cream and wine.

How it's grown

In Ráquira, wild agraz grows on steep, wooded ground. Collectors prune dead or unproductive branches and open paths through the undergrowth to reach the fruit. Some growers also move shrubs from woodland or other parts of the farm into planted areas. There the plants grow in acidic soil rich in organic matter.

When and where you'll find it

For ASOTORRES growers in Ráquira, the larger harvest usually runs from December to March. A smaller crop, called the mitaca, usually follows from July to September.

In Colombia, fresh berries move through produce markets and supermarkets, and to processors and restaurants. Yogurt, juice, ice cream and wine are other ways to meet agraz beyond a punnet of fresh fruit.