Barberry

What it is

Common barberry, Berberis vulgaris, grows on a spiny shrub that loses its leaves in winter. Its oval red berries are about 0.8 cm (⅓ in) long, holding one to three small seeds. The berries are the food part; the bark, leaves, roots and sap are not edible. Iran's seedless cooking barberries sit closest to a related species, Berberis integerrima, rather than to common barberry.

Where it comes from

Common barberry grows wild across Europe and Asia, and in parts of Africa. Early New England settlers brought it to North America in the 1600s; by the 1700s and 1800s it was a common hedge plant and a source of jam and yellow dye. Iran grows seedless barberries in South Khorasan province, around the city of Ghaenat.

How it's eaten where it grows

In Iran, zereshk polo pairs the berries with saffron rice, often alongside saffron chicken. A short sauté with sugar turns the dried berries juicy while keeping their tartness. Slivered almonds and pistachios add crunch; tahdig is the crisp rice crust from the bottom of the pot.

In Isfahan, khoresh morgh ba aloo va zereshk combines chicken with dried plums. Tomato, cinnamon and lemon or lime flavour the sauce, and sweetened barberries finish the stew.

How it's grown

Common barberry grows along roadsides, in hedges and in open woodland. It likes sun but also grows in partial shade, and tolerates clay and poor soil. In North America and western Europe, its small yellow flowers usually appear in May or June, followed by the red fruit.

When and where you'll find it

In North America and western Europe, common barberries are usually ripe by August or September. The kitchen form travels dried: Persian and Middle Eastern grocers, along with online food shops, sell the small red berries as zereshk. They are rinsed before their quick turn in the pan with sugar.